Troubleshooting Loose Stitches

Here, the problem is that we are using a size 90/14 needle on a basic cotton fabric.  A 90/14 needle is relatively thick, so it will poke a relatively thick hole when it pierces the fabric.  Meanwhile, if the thread being used is a normal thread for sewing or quilting (e.g. 50 weight thread), then the knot (stitch) that gets made between the needle thread and bobbin thread will be small in comparison to the hole in the fabric.  

If the hole is significantly larger than the knot, then when the knot gets cinched up into the fabric, it is likely to get cinched up all the way through the hole and poke out the topside of the fabric.  This is not what we want.  We want the knot to sit in between our layers of fabric.

What’s the fix?

In this case the fix is to simply use a size 80/12 needle, which will poke a smaller hole in the fabric– a hole that is not large enough for the thread knot to get sucked up through.  

Now, the inverse of the example above is also relatively common, where the thread knot pokes out from the bottom side of the fabric.

This could happen because the needle is too small.  A size 65/9 needle pokes a really small hole in the fabric– so small that the thread knot is too big to get cinched up through the fabric.

It could also occur if the thread is too thick.  For example, a thick 12-weight thread creates a relatively large thread knot, too large for the hole pierced by a Universal 80/12 needle.  In this case, a 90/14 or 100/16 needle might be necessary.

Summary: Loose Stitches

• Failure to properly match the needle with the thread can cause intermittent knots and looping.
• If we use a thick needle (e.g. size 90/14) with a fine thread (e.g. 50 weight thread), the stitch may get sucked to the top of the fabric. In this case, either use a smaller needle (80/12), or use a heavier weight thread (40 weight).
• If we use an average/small size needle (size 80/12, 70/10) with a heavier weight thread (12 weight), then the knot may get stuck on the underside of the fabric instead of sitting in-between the fabric.  In this case, either use a larger needle (90/14, 100/16), or use a lighter weight thread (40 weight).