Sewing Machine Needles Explained: How to Choose the Right Needle
When it comes to sewing, the needle is your most critical tool, yet it’s often overlooked. Understanding sewing machine needles is key to achieving perfect stitches and extending the life of your sewing projects. Whether you’re a beginner or a seasoned sewist, choosing the right needle for your machine and fabric can make all the difference. This comprehensive guide will help you understand the anatomy of a sewing machine needle, how to read a needle package, and the various types of needles available—all to ensure you select the perfect needle for your next project. Plus, we’ll show you where to find high-quality needles that suit your specific sewing needs. Let’s dive into the essentials of sewing machine needles and discover how this small yet mighty tool can transform your sewing experience.
How to Read a Pack of Sewing Machine Needles
Understanding how to read a pack of sewing machine needles is essential for selecting the right needle for your project.
Here's what you need to know:
System Number
Most home sewing machines use the same needle system, making it simple to find compatible needles. The system number—indicating the needle's overall dimensions—is always printed on the needle package. Common system numbers for home sewing machines include 130/705 H, HA1, HAx1, and 15x1. These numbers refer to the needle's length, shank diameter, and the flat shank design that ensures proper positioning in your sewing machine.
Needle Size
Needle sizes are indicated by two numbers, such as 80/12, 90/14, or 100/16. The first number represents the European size (e.g., 80), while the second number is the U.S. size (e.g., 12). A larger number means a thicker needle, which is better suited for heavier fabrics or thicker threads. As the size increases, so does the needle's eye to accommodate thicker threads. For instance, a size 110/18 needle is perfect for heavy-duty projects, while a size 75/11 is ideal for lightweight fabrics.
Needle Type
The needle type is determined by its point design and intended fabric or thread use. The most versatile option is the Universal needle, which works well for a wide range of fabrics and is typically the most affordable. If you’re satisfied with your results using a Universal needle, there’s no need to switch.
For specialized needs, look for needles labeled with specific fabric types or techniques, such as Quilting, Denim, Embroidery, Leather, Knit, Topstitch, or Microtex. Labels like “Sharp” or “Ball Point” refer to the needle’s point design. Sharp-point needles, such as Quilting or Denim needles, excel on tightly woven fabrics, while ball-point needles, such as Knit or Stretch needles, are ideal for knitted or stretchy materials. For example, a Quilting needle can also be used on Denim, making it a versatile addition to your sewing toolkit.
By learning how to interpret needle packaging, you’ll always be equipped with the right needle for your project, ensuring professional-looking results every time.
Anatomy of Sewing Machine Needles
Butt: The beveled end allows easy insertion in the needle bar.
Shank: Household needles have a flat shank while commercial and industrial needles have round threaded notched or other special shanks. Shanks allow perfect positioning of the needle in the sewing machine.
Shoulder: The sloping area transitioning between the shank and blade. SCHMETZ color codes appear on the shoulder
Blade: Needle size is determined by the blade diameter (i.e., size 75 is .75 mm).
Groove: The groove cradles and guides thread to the eve The length and size of the groove vary according to needle type
Scarf: The indentation above the eve that allows the bobbin hook to smoothly grab the thread under the throat plate to create a stitch. The shape and size of the scarf vary according to needle type.
Eye: The hole through which thread passes. The shape and size of the eye vary according to needle type
Point & Tip: Length, shape and size vary according to needle types
Needle Type: Upper color band indicates needle type (i.e., Stretch).
Needle Size: Lower color band indicates size (i.e., 75/11.)
Different Types of Sewing Machine Needles
General Sewing Machine Needle Guidelines
- Use a high-quality brand of needle. We recommend Schmetz needles. Schmetz is a German Manufacturer and is considered by most experts to be the best needle available.
- If you are not sure what needle size to use, try an 80/12 Universal. It is a great all-around needle for a variety of fabrics and thicknesses. This is what we use in our service department at The Sewing Machine Shop.
- Try a standard Universal needle first before moving onto a specialty needle. I generally recommend you don’t preemptively use a specialty needle until you encounter issues. However, I have begun to recommend Topstitch needles to people who have trouble threader their needle, whether they are using a needle threader or are threading by hand. Topstitch needles are a sharp-point needle with a larger eye, which makes it easier to thread.
- If you are getting skipped stitches on stretch/knit fabric, use a ballpoint or stretch-designated needle. This will reduce something we call flagging and aid in stitch formation and fewer skipped stitches.
- If you are getting a slightly zig-zaggy straight stitch on wovens, try a Sharp, Denim, Microtex, or Quilt needle. The sharp point will break the fabric strand during penetration instead of deflecting to one side or the other of the fiber strand to create a better-looking straighter stitch.
- If you are getting shredding or unusually high thread breakage, try a Topstitch or Embroidery needle. These needles have a larger eye (for example, an 80/12 topstitch needle may have the same sized eye as a 110/18 Universal needle, allowing thread to flow more easily through the eye).
Common Misuses we see with Sewing Machine Needles:
- Too large a needle size is being used. A needle is not a nail. Try using a 12 instead of a 16 or 18 on thick fabric. It is easier for a pin to go through something thick than it is for a nail. Large-diameter needles can lead to many problems.
- Too small a needle size is being used. Any size under 11 should be used extremely seldom. Very few threads flow smoothly through the small eyes of needles size 10 or below. Also, the small hole created with these needles is rarely large enough to provide a space for the thread knot to tuck into. Needle threaders rarely work and are often bent with needles smaller than an 11 or 12.
- Expensive needle are being used when not needed. Why pay more?
- Dull or bent needles in your machine create a popping sound and poor stitch quality.
- Needle not fully inserted or inserted backwards creating skipped stitches and thread breakage. When you insert the needle, the flat side of the needle should face the back of the machine. “Flat to the Back” is the rule on the vast majority of home sewing machines.
Shop Sewing Machine Needles
When it comes to sewing machine needles, quality matters—that’s why we exclusively sell needles made by Schmetz, the trusted German needle manufacturer. Renowned for their precision and durability, Schmetz needles are designed to meet the highest standards, ensuring high stitch quality, reduced thread breakage, and a smoother sewing experience. Whether you need a Universal needle for everyday projects or a specialty needle for Quilting, Embroidery, or Denim, Schmetz offers a variety of options to suit your needs. Browse our collection below to experience the superior performance of Schmetz needles and elevate every sewing project you create.
Universal Needles
Stretch Needles
Topstitch Needles
Microtex Sharp Needles
Jeans/ Denim Needles
Leather Needles
Quilting Needles
Serger Needles
Super NonStick Needles
Twin Needles
Free Shipping
To make your shopping experience even better, we offer free shipping on any order of $25 or more. Need to stock up? Bundle your needle order with other essentials like sewing machine oil, thread, or bobbins to reach the free shipping threshold and save more. Browse our wide selection of premium sewing supplies today, and enjoy the convenience and savings of shopping with us!
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